Getting Started
Thank you for choosing K9 Kaliber for your companion’s training! I’m absolutely thrilled to be meeting you and your pup soon. Please read through the below information, and fill out the New Client Registration Form at the bottom when you’re done.
What to Expect
Evaluation
The first step in creating any training or behavioral modification program is an evaluation. The evaluation is where your dog teaches me who they are: their likes and dislikes, their energy level, what motivates them, what their comfort levels are, and how they prefer to work with a new person. You, as their owner, will be asked about their history, behaviors that you have seen with them so far, their life experiences, long term goals for your dog, and a lot more. All of this helps paint a picture of your dog and how they live and learn. The evaluation may include things like testing for resource (food, treat, toy, etc.) guarding, reactivity towards strangers or other dogs, noise reactivity, touch sensitivity, and other more complex areas of canine behavior that could be a problem waiting to emerge. The evaluation typically takes 45 minutes to an hour, but may run slightly over if we have a lot to talk about!
For Lessons at Your Home
When I arrive, don’t be offended if I ignore your dog. While I am very excited to meet them, it’s absolutely vital that I gain their trust as well as set the rules from day one. If a dog isn’t ready to meet me, that’s okay, I’ll have tons of questions for you and lots of notes to take while your dog decides if they’d like to approach me. Likewise, if your dog is overly excited and jumps up on me at the door, I may instruct them to “off” and only interact with them once they’re calm, so as not to encourage unwanted behavior. While it might seem a bit gruff to be giving commands as soon as I’ve arrived, whatever we establish as being okay on day one must also be okay on later lessons; changing the rules on a dog is confusing and hinders their ability to learn. Please act as though I am any other person coming to your home; unless your dog is usually kenneled, leashed, muzzled, etc. for people arriving, it is not necessary to do so for my arrival. I prefer to see your dog as they normally are on a typical day.
Face coverings are optional, as long as all persons present have not been ill within the last two weeks, and are not showing symptoms of communicable illness (coughing, sneezing, etc.). Please be respectful not only of my health, but the health of my young, elderly, and immune-compromised clients, as well.
Before and after every lesson, I use a minimum 70% alcohol content hand sanitizer, and will by default wear a face mask. If you or someone in your home has additional protocols for their safety, you need only inform me, and I will gladly follow your household’s requirements.
Lastly, if you would prefer that I cover my tattoos during our in-home lessons, please let me know. I am happy to honor your faith or culture while I am a guest in your home.
For Video Lessons
Please do your best to follow all instructions carefully. Don’t be afraid to ask me to demonstrate a technique again or to clarify something. I may demonstrate a technique or skill repeatedly, and may do it while you are also working on it. I will give instructions and refine your own behavior to help you give your dog the most constructive training possible, so please don’t be offended or upset if it seems like I’m being “nit-picky”. My job is to help you and your dog bring out the best in each other, and that starts with bringing out the best in you!
I will host our lesson via Streamyard; you do not need to make an account to join your lesson, nor download any special software. It will run in your phone or computer browser. When I start our lesson, I will send you a text with a link to join.
How Does This All Work?
I train the dog I’m training. That means that I will work with you and your dog as individuals, not “just another dog”. Every dog learns differently, and every person has their own comfort zone and their own needs and expectations. I use the full spectrum of training methodologies as appropriate for each dog. It’s important to understand what all of these terms mean:
Positive Reinforcement (R+)
We are adding a pleasant stimulus to create a positive association with an action. We ask Fido to sit, Fido sits. Fido is rewarded with a treat and verbal praise.
Positive Correction (P+)
We are adding an unwanted stimulus which will create a negative association with the action. Fido surges forward on his leash, we give a very light collar correction paired with a verbal correction to establish that that behavior was not acceptable.
Negative Correction (P-)
We are removing an unpleasant stimulus to establish that unwanted things stop when a wanted behavior is presented. Fido runs to the window and aggressively barks at a passing dog, Fido’s static collar gives a correction. When Fido stops barking, the collar stops giving a static correction, and Fido is rewarded once calm, appropriate behavior is offered.
Negative Reinforcement (R-)
We are removing a pleasant stimulus to establish that wanted things go away when an unwanted behavior is presented. Fido jumps on you when you walk in the door, and you walk away and refuse to engage with Fido until he is calm.
Each of the four quadrants of operant conditioning have their place in training. Please note that not all of them may be useful to every dog, and I never use tools that are stronger than a dog’s threshold. I do not believe in “breaking” a dog or causing physical harm to deter behaviors. At no point will I ever recommend striking, spanking, choking your dog out, alpha rolling, or any method that involves fear, physical pain, or excessive force. When using aversives such as prong collars, e-collars, and similar tools, we will always use the least amount of correction possible. While corrections are often necessary to deter self-reinforcing or dangerous behavior, they should by no means be the first option and must be used in conjunction with redirecting to desirable behavior, and must be used judiciously and fairly. Never use corrections out of anger or frustration; this does not maintain trust and can lead to excessively harsh corrections being issued. Quadrants may be used in tandem, as well; for example, if Fido receives a static correction for ignoring a recall command, he may also receive a reward for then making the right choice and recalling back to you!
Preparing for Training
Train First, Food Later
Not only is a full puppy not going to be excited for their lesson, but too much activity following a meal can be bad for digestion or even cause bloat, a life-threatening condition that requires immediate medical treatment. Please take a moment to familiarize yourself with bloat here.
Avoid Elective Surgeries During Training
Surgeries require healing time, and can mean a break of anywhere from two weeks to two months where no training can be done; we may have to do additional lessons to catch your dog back up before proceeding with our lessons. Additionally, elective surgeries like de-sexing significantly alter the hormonal balance of your pet, and can trigger lethargy, aggression, inappropriate sexual behaviors, and other unwanted effects, particularly in the weeks immediately following such a procedure. During this time, your dog is not learning at their best, may be unpredictable, and may not retain their training as well. Likewise, clients who interrupt their own training with long breaks frequently drop out, leaving their dog partially trained and leading to frustration and conflict later down the line when the unresolved problems continue. Should you choose to de-sex your dog, please refrain from doing so while we are training.
For people who do choose to de-sex their animal, I am a strong advocate for delayed or alternative altering, with respect to the current research that shows significant health risks associated with de-sexing, particularly in immature dogs, as well as my personal experiences with dogs who are intact, de-sexed prior to maturity, and de-sexed once mature. As many shelters require it be done within a certain period of time from your dog coming home, please be sure to mention this prior to beginning training, so that we can most effectively work around it.
Do Not Sedate Your Dog During Training
Medications with sedative effects like trazodone do not allow for your dog to learn properly, and are inappropriate for use during training. Likewise, masking problematic, dangerous, or unwanted behaviors is counterproductive to the training process, as your dog is not able to show me the full scope of what they are struggling with, and masks critically important body language. If your dog cannot communicate their fear or discomfort, this can easily lead to a severe bite, and very frequently does. Sedative medications also often come with side effects that may make your dog very unpredictable, endangering everyone around them.
Potty Before Training
Young puppies need frequent potty breaks, but the more breaks we have to take, the less learning we can fit into a lesson. A short walk or some time in the yard a half hour before a lesson helps keep us training through your whole session.
Don’t Double-book Yourself
To get the most out of your lesson, please make sure to schedule your appointments during a time when you can be present and focused on your dog’s learning. I understand emergencies happen, but having the housekeepers, cable installer, or other unusual visitors to your home during the lesson can be distracting to both you and your dog. That said, family members and friends are always welcome to join us for training! Anyone who is involved in your dog’s life is invited to participate in our lessons together.
Transport Is Your Responsibility
I do not drive students, nor cover the costs for bus, cab, rideshare, or other fees. Getting to and from lessons is your responsibility.
Young People Must Have A Legal Guardian Present
Kids/teens and their dogs are always a blast to work with, and I’m happy to do so! However, an adult guardian who can supervise and care for them in case of an emergency is required to be on site at all times.
Payment Policies
Payment is Due at Time of Service
Payment can be accepted via cash or Zelle/QuickPay, and is due at your appointment.
Payment Plans (Service Dogs ONLY)
I understand that training can be cost prohibitive for some people, and want to ensure that quality training is accessible for everyone. In these cases, I am open to discussing a payment plan. With that in mind, payment plans are at my sole discretion, and payment must be made on schedule. If the total bill for any client exceeds $300, no further services will be provided until the bill is reduced to less than $300. Any attempt to abuse this system or “skip out” on what you owe for services will result in an immediate, irreversible termination from my program, and loss of all support for you and your service dog. You will not be provided any records of your lessons, access dispute assistance, letters for housing or travel, nor any other assistance provided to my service dog teams.
Canceling Your Scheduled Appointment Incurs a $50 Fee
Canceling or rescheduling creates holes in my schedule that are nearly impossible to fill, wasting my time and taking time away from other clients who could have used it. Rescheduled or cancelled appointments will incur a $50 fee each time that an appointment is canceled or rescheduled. Please respect my time and energy, just as I respect yours, and don’t make commitments you cannot keep.
No Refunds
The success of training is dependent on owner follow through; remember that I only see your dog for one hour out of 168 in a week. Practicing with your dog is your responsibility, and is where you will get lasting results. Because of the necessity of a dog owner following through and practicing, and the fact that we are working with a live animal, I do not guarantee results nor offer refunds at any time, for any reason.
Personal/Professional Separation
Communications Policy
Communications via email must be to K9 Kaliber email addresses only. Communications via phone or text must be to the K9 Kaliber business number only. Phone calls must be during reasonable business hours. Texts will not be replied to immediately; I receive hundreds of messages every day, and reply to them as time allows. I do not answer calls or texts on Sunday or Monday, nor during vacations or major holidays; the sole exception to this is if you are currently boarding your dog with me. Please respect my personal time and my obligations outside of work, just as I respect yours.
Frequently Asked Questions
“Do I need to be there? Should my whole household be home?”
During a typical lesson, I will begin shaping the behaviors your dog needs to learn and ensure that we are using the best methods and motivators possible for your dog. I will then teach you how to do what I am doing, and observe as you begin teaching your dog. I find that trainers who do not include the family get mediocre, short-term results, as they have never properly helped the dog’s owner understand how to best work with their dog. Ideally, all household members should be present, however this is not always feasible. In this case, take a little time to review everything with your family after our lesson, to make sure everyone is on-board and working as a team.
“How often should we meet?”
Ideally, one lesson per week. I find that more frequent lessons confer no benefit, as it takes time for you and your dog to get in new habits. Long breaks (1 month or more) tend to set you and your dog back, as each lesson prepares you for the next one and we may need to review concepts and skills that have fallen to the wayside during a long break from training. If you must take a short break, please stay consistent and keep practicing. The most efficient and cost-effective training is training that you dedicate to!
“Do you only use treats and praise?”
No. While some trainers choose to only ever tell a dog “yes”, this methodology does not establish that some behaviors are unacceptable, and never sets boundaries by also saying “no”. It takes far longer, and gives less effective results, to only ever praise good behaviors and fail to correct unwanted or dangerous behaviors. With that said, pain, forced submission, alpha theory/dominance theory are outdated, ineffective, and psychologically damaging methods that I do not utilize. I strongly oppose hitting, screaming, slapping, pinching, alpha rolling, choking out, using excessive force, and other “methods” used by other trainers that create a false appearance of obedience by putting a dog into a shut down state. Training is the best time to build your bond with your dog and learn alongside them; while that includes saying “no”, it does not include breaking your dog’s beautiful, unique spirit.
“How do you train, then?”
“I train the dog in front of me.” Every dog is an individual, and while a high-drive, high-energy dog will usually do best with more firm training, a dog who has suffered from abuse or extreme neglect may be further damaged by corrections. This is why the evaluation is so important, because it is where your dog tells me how they learn and how they will progress the best. Of my personal dogs, every one was trained very differently; one needed very minimal correction and thrived with praise; one had a balance of corrections and praise; one was unmotivated by treats, toys, and praise, and excelled with more corrective training. Just like humans, they are each an individual. Most dogs do best with lots of praise and rewards to establish good behaviors, and then light corrections to establish that some behaviors are unacceptable (pulling on leash, counter-surfing, running out the door, etc.).
“What’s the best way to get in touch?”
For booking your first appointment, a phone call is best. For existing or graduated students, the fastest way to get in touch is a text message. My work phone is a cell phone, so I’m never far away! Emails are checked rarely.
“What are your fees?”
My current fee schedule can be found here.
“Can I meet one of your dogs?”
Yes, absolutely. If you would like to meet my dogs, please ask! I am proud to say that, with the exception of my personal protection dog’s personal protection work, all of my dogs have been trained by me (it sounds silly, but some trainers really do pay to have their dogs trained by someone else, to make them look more skilled than they really are), and people are welcome to meet them and see my results, methods, and skills first-hand.
Registration Form
Now that you’ve read up, it’s time to sign up! If you are registering multiple dogs, fill out one form per dog. It feels like more work now, but saves us both time when we get to your first appointment, promise!
[[Form and policies updated September 9th, 2025]]