Getting Started
Welcome, pet owners! Thanks for joining. While I’ve been teaching group classes since 2014, this is my first at Peppo’s, and I’m pleased to have you all with me on this new journey! Over the next six weeks, we’re going to go over a lot of material, but there are some things I want you to have prepared before coming to class on the first day. Grab yourself a snack and settle in, we have a lot to cover!
What to Expect
The Curriculum
This group class will cover the following skills:
– Obedience cues: sit, stay, down, etc.
– Focusing/distraction work: leave-it, watch me, etc.
– Leash manners: heeling, walking without pulling, ignoring distractions
– House manners: not jumping or barking at guests, maintaining a calm presence
– Basic off-leash skills: stay and recall to owner, staying until owner retrieves the dog, stopping when told
The Rules
In order to maintain safety and keep everyone working together smoothly, there are some rules for my class. Please take a moment to read through these guidelines thoroughly:
Anti-Discrimination Policy
This is a family-friendly and welcoming environment at all times. As such, no language or symbols that are inflammatory, discriminatory, or inappropriate for minors. Racism, homophobia, transphobia, ableism, sexism, etc. will not be tolerated and will result in one warning before permanent exclusion from this and all future classes with no refunds provided.
Choose High-Quality Gear
Good training starts with good gear. Your dog may not train on a flat collar as they are the easiest for a dog to escape from, and pulling on a flat collar is blunt force on the throat and neck arteries. Likewise, I do not recommend front-clip/straight-front/”no-pull” style harnesses. There is significant research indicating the long-term damage that straight-front harnesses do to a dog’s structure; they work by causing crushing pressure across the dog’s shoulders and chest, and cause them to shift their weight inappropriately, slowly degrading the joints over time. They do not ever work to actually stop a dog from pulling (that’s why we’re training). Additionally, these harnesses are very easy to escape from, and a loose dog during class is no laughing matter. Please only use a Y-front harness or training collar (prong or P-chain).
Your dog’s leash may be up to 6′ in length, however I recommend 2′ – 4′ leashes. Absolutely NO retractable or bungee leashes, for any reason.
Bring rewards! Food rewards are the top choice for most dogs; I recommend a variety of treats, both high and low value, in a variety of textures and flavors. Even steak becomes boring after six weeks of eating it for every single thing you do! Remember to choose low-calorie snacks; pet obesity is a major epidemic, and even being slightly overweight can take three years off your dog’s life. Let’s keep our best friends healthy, we owe it to them!
Safety First
If your dog has a history of or inclination towards aggression, they MUST wear a properly sized and fitted muzzle during class. ONLY Baskerville or Jafco muzzles are permitted (Jafco strongly preferred, as it is the only muzzle I have never been bitten through); grooming/cloth muzzles are absolutely not allowed. Likewise, your dog must be able to tolerate a group setting without causing disruptions. Excessive barking, lunging, growling, or intimidation means that your dog is not ready for group classes. While I do not offer refunds, you may, at your choosing, either roll over your registration to a future class at no additional cost while you work to manage your dog’s aggression privately, or use the class fee as credit towards private lessons. Rehabilitation is possible, but you as the owner must be responsible for your dog and not create a threatening environment for others.
Your whole family is absolutely welcome, however, kids have to be kept close and must NOT engage with anyone else’s dog, nor may they be the handler for your dog (i.e., they may work with your dog while you hold the leash). You as their guardian are responsible for their behavior and safety. Remember that we are guests in Peppo’s and need to respect Sarah’s store, her other customers, and the dogs in class, so screaming or running around can’t be happening. I understand kids can be unpredictable; it’s hard being a tiny human experiencing the world for the first time! If you need to step out for a second to help them regain their composure, please do! We’ll be there when you get back.
Be Responsible
Mistakes happen, but please clean up after your dog. If you need supplies, just ask!
Any disputes (personal or otherwise) between owners are between those owners. If your dog bites someone during class, YOU are responsible for any and all costs, reparations, and damages. I do everything in my power to foster a safe environment for everyone, and while it’s never happened in any class I’ve ever taught, these are live animals and they may be unpredictable. Owners are responsible for their own dogs at all times, neither K9 Kaliber nor Peppo’s Pets will be held responsible for your dog’s behavior.
No. Refunds. The success of training is dependent on owner follow through; remember that I only see your dog for one hour out of 168 in a week. Practicing with your dog is your responsibility, and is where you will get lasting results. Because of the necessity of a dog owner following through and practicing, and the fact that we are working with a live animal, I do not guarantee results nor offer refunds at any time, for any reason.
How Does Training Work, Anyway?
I train the dog I’m training. That means that I will work with you and your dog as individuals, not “just another dog”. Every dog learns differently, and every person has their own comfort zone and their own needs and expectations. I use the full spectrum of training methodologies as appropriate for each dog. It’s important to understand what all of these terms mean:
Positive Reinforcement (R+)
We are adding a pleasant stimulus to create a positive association with an action. We ask Fido to sit, Fido sits. Fido is rewarded with a treat and verbal praise.
Positive Correction (P+)
We are adding an unwanted stimulus which will create a negative association with the action. Fido surges forward on his leash, we give a very light collar correction paired with a verbal correction to establish that that behavior was not acceptable.
Negative Correction (P-)
We are removing an unpleasant stimulus to establish that unwanted things stop when a wanted behavior is presented. Fido runs to the window and aggressively barks at a passing dog, Fido’s static collar gives a correction. When Fido stops barking, the collar stops giving a static correction, and Fido is rewarded once calm, appropriate behavior is offered.
Negative Reinforcement (R-)
We are removing a pleasant stimulus to establish that wanted things go away when an unwanted behavior is presented. Fido jumps on you when you walk in the door, and you walk away and refuse to engage with Fido until he is calm.
Each of the four quadrants of operant conditioning have their place in training. Please note that not all of them may be useful to every dog, and I never use tools that are stronger than a dog’s threshold. I do not believe in “breaking” a dog or causing physical harm to deter behaviors. At no point will I ever recommend striking, spanking, choking your dog out, alpha rolling, or any method that involves fear, physical pain, or excessive force. When using aversives such as prong collars, e-collars, and similar tools, we will always use the least amount of correction possible. While corrections are often necessary to deter self-reinforcing or dangerous behavior, they should by no means be the first option and must be used in conjunction with redirecting to desirable behavior, and must be used judiciously and fairly. Never use corrections out of anger or frustration; this does not maintain trust and can lead to excessively harsh corrections being issued. Quadrants may be used in tandem, as well; for example, if Fido receives a static correction for ignoring a recall command, he may also receive a reward for then making the right choice and recalling back to you!
Preparing for Training
Train First, Food Later
Not only is a full puppy not going to be excited for their lesson, but too much activity following a meal can be bad for digestion or even cause bloat, a life-threatening condition that requires immediate medical treatment. Please take a moment to familiarize yourself with bloat here. Feed dinner when you get home, not before you leave, and remember to adjust their meals accordingly based on how many treats they earned during class to avoid becoming overweight!
Avoid Elective Surgeries During Training
Surgeries require healing time, and can mean a break of anywhere from two weeks to two months where no training can be done. Additionally, elective surgeries like de-sexing significantly alter the hormonal balance of your pet, and can trigger lethargy, aggression, inappropriate sexual behaviors, and other unwanted effects, particularly in the weeks immediately following such a procedure. During this time, your dog is not learning at their best, may be unpredictable, and may not retain their training as well. Should you choose to de-sex your dog, please refrain from doing so while we are training. I advocate for delayed or alternative altering, with respect to the current research that shows significant health risks associated with de-sexing, particularly in immature dogs, as well as my personal experiences with dogs who are intact, de-sexed prior to maturity, and de-sexed once mature. As many shelters require it be done within a certain period of time from your dog coming home, please plan your class accordingly! Again, there are no refunds for any reason.
Potty Before Training
Young puppies need frequent potty breaks, but the more breaks we have to take, the less learning we can fit into a lesson. A short walk or some time in the yard a half hour before a lesson helps keep us training through your whole session.
Transport Is Your Responsibility
I do not drive students, nor cover the costs for bus, cab, rideshare, or other fees. Getting to and from lessons is your responsibility, please plan accordingly.
Minors Must Have A Legal Guardian Present
Kids/teens and their dogs are always a blast to work with, and I’m happy to do so! However, a guardian who can care for them in case of an emergency is required to be on site at all times.
Policies
Payment is Due at the Start of Class
Payment can be accepted via cash, Zelle/QuickPay (847-346-6414, registered as Quinlan Malloy), and CashApp (please ask). The group class is $175, drop-ins are $35 per session.
No Refunds
The success of training is dependent on owner follow through; remember that I only see your dog for one hour out of 168 in a week. Practicing with your dog is your responsibility, and is where you will get lasting results. Because of the necessity of a dog owner following through and practicing, and the fact that we are working with a live animal, I do not guarantee results nor offer refunds at any time, for any reason.
Personal/Professional Separation
Communications Policy
Communications via email must be to K9 Kaliber email addresses only. Communications via phone or text must be to the K9 Kaliber business number only. Phone calls and text messages should be made or sent during reasonable business hours. Texts will not be replied to immediately; I receive hundreds of messages every day, and reply to them as time allows. You do not need to send a text or call every time you work with your dog between lessons; we will catch-up at your next lesson. I do not answer calls or texts on Sunday or Monday, as these are my days off, nor during vacations or major holidays; the sole exception to this is if you are currently boarding your dog with me. Please respect my personal time and my obligations outside of work, just as I respect yours.
Frequently Asked Questions
“Do I need to be there? Should my whole household be home?”
During a typical lesson, I will begin by demonstrating the skill that we’re working on with my own dog. I may show multiple options, as every dog is a little different and finding the right method for each dog is important to respecting them and communicating with them effectively. I will then observe as you begin teaching your dog, roaming through the class and helping as needed or offering challenges for you and your dog to take it to the next level. I find that trainers who do not include the family get mediocre, short-term results, as they have never properly helped the dog’s owner understand how to best work with their dog. Ideally, all household members should be present, however this is not always feasible. In this case, take a little time to review everything with your family after our lesson, to make sure everyone is on-board and working as a team.
“Can I bring multiple dogs?”
Yes, as long as there is one adult handler per dog. Be sure to fill out the form once per dog!
“Do you only use treats and praise?”
No. While some trainers choose to only ever tell a dog “yes”, this methodology does not establish that some behaviors are unacceptable, and never sets boundaries by also saying “no”. It takes far longer, and gives less effective results, to only ever praise good behaviors and fail to correct unwanted or dangerous behaviors. With that said, pain, forced submission, alpha theory/dominance theory are outdated, ineffective, and psychologically damaging methods that I do not utilize. I strongly oppose hitting, screaming, slapping, pinching, intentionally scaring, alpha rolling, choking out, using excessive force, and other “methods” used by other trainers that create a false appearance of obedience by putting a dog into a shut down state. Training is the best time to build your bond with your dog and learn alongside them; while that includes saying “no”, it does not include breaking your dog’s beautiful, unique spirit.
“How do you train, then?”
“I train the dog in front of me.” Every dog is an individual, and while a high-drive, high-energy dog will usually do best with more firm training, a dog who has suffered from abuse or extreme neglect may be distressed by corrections. Your dog will tell us how they learn and how they will progress the best. Of my personal dogs, every one was trained very differently; one needed very minimal correction and thrived with praise; one had a balance of corrections and praise; one was unmotivated by treats, toys, and praise, and excelled with more corrective training. Just like humans, they are each an individual. Most dogs do best with lots of praise and rewards to establish good behaviors, and then light corrections to establish that some behaviors are unacceptable (pulling on leash, counter-surfing, running out the door, etc.).
“What’s the best way to get in touch?”
Text messages are the fastest way to get in touch, as I can easily reply to them between clients and other small business owner things. My work phone is a cell phone, so I’m never far away! I am off on Sundays and Mondays, all messages are replied to on Tuesday. Emails are checked on Tuesday and Thursday.
“What are your fees? Do you provide other services?”
My current fee schedule can be found here.
“Will you have a dog with you?”
Yes. My service dog and co-worker, Mishi, will be attending class with me to demonstrate techniques and help with distractions for your dog. Click here to meet my dogs!
Registration Form
You did it! Thanks for reading through all that. I know it’s a lot, but I take safety and responsible pet ownership very seriously, and want to keep my classes accident free and a welcoming, positive experience for everyone. Fill out the following form once per dog (it’s really not that long, please don’t make my paperwork harder by cramming multiple dogs into one form, I will make you fill it back out!), and when our first class day comes, we’ll handle payment then and there. Again, a thousand thanks for welcoming me as part of your dog’s training journey, it is an honor and a joy!
[[Form and policies updated 07/23/2023]]